Sharp Close-ups
Left Image: 35mm SLR, 100mm f-2.8 macro lens, Fuji Velvia 50, Bogen tripod and pan/tilt head.
Spot meter and opening up +1/2 stop, f-11, shutter speed not recorded. Manual exposure and
manual focus.
Taking sharp close-ups is different from
taking sharp photographs of a landscape or a building. At close range
depth-of-field is extremely shallow, and getting closer or farther even by an inch, makes
a big difference. If you are photographing a landscape, you can move several feet closer
or farther without loosing or gaining much depth-of-field. In close-ups however, every
inch counts. Stopping down the lens alone wont solve the problem. At high magnifications
you must align your camera so it is parallel to your subject. Position your camera and
check to make sure it is parallel to the most important part of your subject. Even a small
camera movement can throw your subject out of focus. Determine the most important part of
the subject. A piece of thin cardboard or your gray card can help in aligning your camera.
Set up and align your camera to your subject as closely as you can. Place the cardboard
parallel to the most important part of your subject. Align the back of the camera with the
angle of the cardboard. It is best to use pan-tilt tripod heads for close-up work. They
allow more precise focusing in close-ups. Ball heads are difficult to use since one
control loosens all movements.
Left Image: 35mm SLR, 100mm f-2.8 macro lens, Fuji Velvia 50, Bogen tripod and pan/tilt head.
Spot meter and opening up +1 stop, f-16, shutter speed not recorded.
aperture priority and
manual focus.
Autofocus wont work well in close-up photography. You have
much more freedom by focusing your lens manually. This way you can choose exactly the
point you feel is the most important. Keep in mind that in close-up photography turning
the focusing mount changes the magnification. It is better to decide on a magnification
and move the camera to bring the subject in focus. If you do a lot of close-up
photography, invest in a macro focusing rail. Focusing rails are placed between the tripod
and the camera. You can simply move the camera closer or farther from your subject for
critical focusing. Some models allow movements in four directions for better positioning
of the subject. The hardest part of close-up photography is focusing. Take extra time and
care if you want to produce good close-up images.
Macro photography: Learning from a Master
Topics covered in this outstanding guide range from practical advice about basic equipment and more sophisticated accessories to aesthetic concerns such as composition and color. After explaining how to proceed in the variety of terrains nature photographers may encounter in their travels, the book examines macrophotography in the studio, discussing how animal and plant life can be shot in aquariums and vivariums and using studio backdrops.